Strawberry

Plant runners or bare-root strawberries from August to October for fruiting the following summer. Spring planting (March–May) is also possible but may give a smaller first-year crop. Remove flowers in the first year to build plant strength.

Small fruit is usually caused by overwatering, poor pollination, overcrowded plants, or plants that are several years old and need renewing. Thin plants to 30–40cm spacing, renew beds every 3–4 years from runners, and water consistently.

Net strawberry plants before fruits start to colour — birds take fruit at the first hint of red. Low hoops with fine netting work well. Remove netting during the day if possible to allow pollinator access.

Strawberry plants are most productive in years 1–3. From year 4 onwards, yield and fruit size decline. Renew beds by pegging down healthy runners to root in small pots, then transplanting. This keeps your patch perpetually young.

Feed established strawberry plants with a high-potassium liquid feed (such as tomato feed) every two weeks from when they begin flowering until fruiting ends. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds during the fruiting period — they produce soft, watery fruit with poor flavour. After fruiting, a single balanced feed helps plants build energy for next year.

Yes — garlic, chives and onions are all useful companions in a strawberry bed. Alliums produce sulphur compounds that have antifungal properties, which can help reduce pressure from botrytis (grey mould) — strawberries' most damaging fungal disease. Their scent also deters aphids. Garlic has the highest sulphur content and is the strongest choice; chives are the most practical as a permanent border plant; onions work on the same principle and can be interplanted between rows. All three have shallow roots that do not compete significantly with strawberry plants.